2 Teck Lim Road
Situated in a preserved shophouse on a quiet street off Jalan Kreta Ayer, Bistro Soori radiates refinement, like an alabaster temple dedicated to the pursuit of culinary nirvana. The place was named after a beach in Bali after all, so a little bit of zen must have been part of the architectural inspiration. Upon entering, we were greeted by the sight of chefs working in chaotic harmony at the chef’s table. It’s always nice to watch professionals at work, and the food coming up to the pass looked promising.
Scallop, Pistachio Pesto, Arugula, Pear, Vinegar Gelee, Truffle Vinaigrette
For starters, we had the scallops and the foie gras. The scallops came highly recommended but judging from what we had from that night, it was hard to see why. The scallops themselves were undoubtedly fresh and large, but the pistachio pesto that it was served with was overpoweringly salty. If the dish had been fiddled with less, the sheer quality of the ingredients would have done itself justice.
Foie Gras Duo, Poached Pear, Brioche Crouton, Pink Peppercorn, Gastrique
The foie gras duo was brilliant. The dish was a classic combination of salty and sweet, with the brioche and poached pear providing the perfect accompaniment. I thought hiding the pâté in the core of the poached pear was a rather elegant twist. Gloria didn’t really like poached pears very much, which was the result of eating too much of it whilst growing up. I didn’t have any such qualms so I happily finished up her share of the pear for her.
Uni, Scallop, Prawn,Risotto, Yuzu, Thai Basil
As for the mains, we had the seafood risotto and the lamb racks, both of which were well done. The risotto had a slight hint of tangerine infused into it, which went really well with the seafood.
Rack of Lamb, Plum Tomato, Black Olive, Green Olive, White Anchovy
The lamb was interesting. It was served with a shopping-list of some very rich savoury ingredients. The white anchovies were a really nice touch, its vinegar pickling helping to diffuse some of the lamb’s fatty richness. Who would have thought lamb and fish would ever go so well together?
Pandan Soufflé, Strawberry Compote
We had really high hopes for the dessert. Pandan in a soufflé sounded like a match made in heaven. What was served looked really promising -The soufflé had risen reasonably well (slightly lopsided), and the green tinge looked just about right. However, upon plunging our spoons into the centre of ramekin the pudding collapsed like a deflating balloon castle. Evidently it had been a shade or two undercooked. The resulting mulch was too sweet to eat.
Bistro Soori was not a triumph for us that night, but there were several bright points that showed off the pedigree of the restaurant and its staff. The service was genuine, and the waiter was sincerely apologetic about the way the soufflé and scallops turned out for us when we gave our feedback. Hoping to return soon, and maybe the other dishes on the menu would surprise.